Gender Inclusivity in Watches - What NOMOS is Doing Right, and the Release of the 34mm Club Sport
Photo provided by NOMOS
Today, NOMOS released its new 34mm Club Sport Neomatik models. I had the opportunity to handle these new novelties at the 2024 NOMOS Forum, held in Dresden and Glashütte, in early October. They were announced to thunderous applause from an audience of writers, photographers, influencers, and watch retailers. A sporty watch in a smaller size for people with smaller wrists who appreciate fine watchmaking could not have been received better. This release and NOMOS as a brand deserve celebration.
Photo by Chris Antzoulis
I’ve prioritized connecting with as many watch enthusiasts as possible because I love the stories shared through this hobby. It thrives on abundant communication, not just among collectors spinning yarns about their favorite pieces; the interaction between the community and brands can also be fruitful. We asked for more color in our watches, and the brands responded. We have a variety of case sizes and new materials. However, I hear a familiar story from enthusiasts, especially women, as well as trans and non-binary individuals: not enough brands are willing to welcome them into the fold, and when they do, it’s with tiny, often gem set, quartz watches that lack the same horological significance that this group of enthusiasts may be looking for. This comes down to more than just sizing, color, and materials; it also comes down to how brands send a message and what they’re saying. Whenever one of us buys a watch, we are, in a sense, invited by the brand and choose to accept it because, ideally, we feel welcome.
Many brands fail to include individuals beyond heterosexual men who may identify differently. And you’ll hear the same excuses from that population: “more men buy watches than women,” “women don’t care about mechanical movements,” or “women prefer jewelry.” My response to all of this is that if someone is excluded from something for long enough, they begin to believe it’s not for them. Yet, there are many women and gender-nonconforming people in the enthusiast community who appreciate watches just as much as men do. This appreciation comes from their efforts to overcome the testosterone-filled barrier put up in front of them. I would argue that if brands changed their messaging to be more inclusive, the general population would gradually follow the enthusiast community.
Photo by Chris Antzoulis
I’m not blaming anyone, but no one enjoys being pigeonholed with ideas like, “This is who you are and what you should wear.” Through marketing, brands define their customers. They use brand ambassadors, photography, product labels, print, and spoken messaging to create an inviting atmosphere, clearly indicating who they want to include. Some brands deserve our attention because they’re extending their tables rather than excluding people…like a certain mean girl who famously said, “You can’t sit with us”— coughThierrySterncough. NOMOS is one such brand that grabs the leaf to extend the table, and I believe they have embraced this approach since their founding in 1990.
“At the time, it was a new category, as watches had previously been divided into ladies’ watches and men’s watches. It was a different world back then. NOMOS has offered elegant and thin watches from the beginning and made a conscious decision to make only one size initially. That’s also how the watch design is at its best because if you make it smaller, the proportions are no longer right. With our mid-size and low height, our watches were easy for everyone to wear. This meant that women, or people with small wrists, could also wear a beautiful watch without it being too playful or feminine. That was a new concept at the time—offering everyone the same watch.” - NOMOS Marketing Team
For the past few months, I have been discussing NOMOS's products and designs, as well as its principles and responsibilities as a brand, with the marketing and communications team. Many conversations I’ve had with community members about diversity have concluded with them pointing to NOMOS as a more inclusive brand. I have found that NOMOS essentially allows consumers to define which watch is right for them, focusing more on craftsmanship and style than on gender.
Photo by Chris Antzoulis
During my visit to NOMOS in Glashütte, we were welcomed into two watchmaking facilities: one primarily focused on milling and finishing components, and the other where the watches were assembled. Both facilities were beautiful and pristine, with a diverse workforce of men and women, including both newer and more experienced workers. The workforce was nearly balanced, if not entirely so. One notable aspect was that almost every employee wore a NOMOS watch. Although I haven't visited many manufacturers yet and am still new to the industry, approaching two years, I sensed a remarkable pride in craftsmanship. I even noticed some men wearing watches in more feminine colors and women wearing traditionally more masculine pieces. Yet, all of these watches appeared to fit perfectly on their wrists.
When asked why they believe their watches are so universal and welcoming, NOMOS emphasized that both the design and technical features make their watches appealing and accessible.
“There are several features and design elements that make our watches attractive to people who identify as any gender; the first is the clear and simple design with balanced proportions. The case shape […] is also attractive to a wide range of wearers, especially the slim profile, making the watches particularly elegant and comfortable. NOMOS offers different case sizes, from 33 to 42 mm, so nearly everyone can find a watch to suit them. The in-house caliber, which is highly precise and finely decorated in the Glashütte tradition, appeals to both technology enthusiasts and design lovers. We have many dial colors, from classic white to bright red, and many other statement shades.” - NOMOS Marketing Team
During the trip, the NOMOS team hammered home their belief in creating accessible watches while maintaining a focus on technical watchmaking and craftsmanship. They highlighted that being fashion-forward is an art. NOMOS wants you not only to join them at the table but also to express yourself as vibrantly or conservatively as you desire.
Photo by Chris Antzoulis
After visiting the lovely and welcoming watchmakers, we headed to an old church situated on a hill overlooking Glashütte. NOMOS acquired this church, where they host their NOMOS Forum. We enjoyed food prepared by a world-class chef, drinks, and lectures. Here, we were treated to a first look at the new NOMOS calibre, DUW-4601, and the new Tangente 2Date. We saw the two new Doré Orion and Tangente models. And finally, the reveal of the NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik 34mm. From the hype leading to the announcement, I think NOMOS believed that the new calibre in the 2Date would be the showstopper. While it is a beautiful movement with potential for other interesting uses, the Club Sport’s reception was uproarious.
Many in the room applauded, and some even gave a standing ovation, at the addition of a smaller Club Sport Neomatik to the NOMOS lineup. In fact, I was seated next to my friend Sophie from Sophie’s Watch World. I noticed her beaming from ear to ear. As the applause continued, she became emotional. And I know why. We’ve discussed how brands often overlook women and individuals with smaller wrists. They desire a market with smaller watches that retain the craftsmanship and classical watchmaking typically associated with pieces marketed to men. Seeing my friend enjoy this release brought me happiness, making this event feel more like a family gathering than a sales pitch, and kept spirits high for the rest of the forum.
Journalist Robin Swithinbank conducted a lecture discussing the state of the watch market and ways for brands to move toward a brighter future. Kamilla Richter, a fashion stylist, and consultant who collaborated with NOMOS on the fashion element of the colorful photos behind the Tangente 31 colors launch earlier in 2024, also gave a second lecture on watches focusing on color and fashion.
I found Kamilla to be an inspiring speaker on fashion and its impact on watches. She spoke about color as a driving force behind expression. Her inclusion in the festivities conveyed to me that NOMOS is serious about creating a palette of products that provide a platform for its consumers to express themselves. And when I asked NOMOS Marketing Team about how the brand ensures this inclusivity and remains representative of all individuals, especially when it comes to their portrayal through marketing, they said:
Photo by Chris Antzoulis
“We use inclusive language in our marketing materials. For example, we address customers without gender-specific labels and create content where men and women wear the same watches. We also prefer working with androgynous models of various wrist sizes, skin colors, and styles to represent a diverse range of potential watch wearers. As a brand, we have a strong sense of social responsibility, which is why we openly discuss issues like democracy and sustainability.” - NOMOS Marketing Team
Social responsibility is central to what NOMOS represents. Coincidentally, on the day we attended the NOMOS Forum, Judith Borowski (NOMOS CMO), Uwe Ahrendt (NOMOS CEO), and Roland Schwertner (NOMOS Founder) received the German Federal Order of Merit in Berlin. This award symbolizes NOMOS's impact in Glashütte as a “post-unification success story,” since its founding on January 1, 1990. And while this also meant that these particular people couldn’t join us at the forum, it was a beautiful experience to be present with dozens of NOMOS employees to celebrate their success as a company, as well as the success of these new releases.
Photo by Chris Antzoulis
It’s important to remember that NOMOS is not the only brand with a progressive view of its consumer base through active inclusivity. However, it is a large independent company that claims to be the largest watch manufacturer in Germany by units produced. When our guide was asked how many units that would be, she replied, “More than Lange, less than Rolex." That warranted a belly laugh from this writer. In all seriousness, this way of marketing is not just inclusive, it is kind. I believe it’s fair to say that NOMOS's decisions are influential. Many microbrands and smaller independents market their products more inclusively, along with companies that are part of larger conglomerates. In recent years, Zenith has launched an initiative to market in a more inclusive manner. They removed gender-separated sections from their website and now feature both men and women photographed wearing watches from iconic model families like the El Primero and the Defy.
These changes may be small, but they are significant. Many people are calling for more of these advancements—not only in watches but also in the ongoing evolution of cultural recognition. Celebrating our community's diversity means being more inclusive through meaningful choices and reflections. Some may believe that the marketing decisions a brand makes are not significant to the general population. However, I argue that the more we see reflections of ourselves in society, the more comfortable we feel within it. Many people are underrepresented and often feel unseen; they deserve more equity than they currently receive, and it’s up to all of us to call for it.
The NOMOS 34mm Club Sport Neomatik may appear to be just another watch release in a crowded market, but it connects with people who want to feel represented in a hobby and industry they love. As always, I look forward to seeing what NOMOS does next.
NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik 34mm
Dimensions: 34mm Diameter x 8.2mm Height
Case & Bracelet: Stainless Steel Case on a Steel Bracelet w/Quick Adjust Spring Bars
Movement: In-House NOMOS Caliber DUW-3001 with Automatic Winding
Water Resistance: 200 Meters
Crystal: Domed Sapphire with Anti-Reflective Coating (plus a Sapphire Crystal Exhibition Caseback)
Price: $3,390.00 (USD)
NOMOS 34mm Club Sport Neomatik
The 34mm Club Sport Neomatik is available in three colors for its initial launch: gold, rosé, and purple. Despite its automatic movement, it has a thickness of 8.2mm. Although it has a diameter of 34mm, it fits more like a 35mm or nearly a 36mm due to its signature sprawling lugs.
While my personal favorite color is luscious purple, I believe the gold dial may appeal to a wider audience. Even on my over 7.5-inch wrist, I did not find the smaller case out of place. Although I think a slightly larger size suits me better, I understand that this release is not meant for me; it’s intended for the enthusiasts I mentioned earlier—those with smaller wrists who have been yearning for everyday watches made in smaller sizes that showcase serious craftsmanship and mastery of mechanical tradition.
This small watch features a beautiful bracelet with quick-release, 18mm spring bars. To enhance its sporty appeal, it offers 200m of water resistance and is equipped with a screw-down crown that has a red warning ring, indicating when the water resistance is compromised and when the crown needs to be secured back in place.
Transparency: I have a relationship and open dialogue with NOMOS marketing and communications. While NOMOS invited me to their Forum, NOMOS did not pay for this article, nor did they read over it before publication.
