From Tudor to TAG Heuer: My Top Five Brands to Keep an Eye on in 2025
Photo by Stephen Nichols @talkingabouttime - Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
While I wholeheartedly believe this wonderful world of watches is rich in creativity and warrants all the attention and coin we drop within it, I think it’s also fair to say that it moves at a snail's pace. I understand why. It takes months, if not years, to realize new designs and longer still to develop brand-new movements. This is why you have an entire community of enthusiasts, influencers, and media members who will freak out over the same watch just because of a different dial color. While I am poking a bit of fun at how easily excitable we are, sometimes these small changes serve to buy time for larger developments to unfold.
Before we start, I want to mention that I’m not well-connected enough right now to have any significant insider knowledge about what might be coming up, so I’m just taking a shot in the dark. That said, here are some brands that I think could make a splash this year.
TAG Heuer
Photo by Nigel Oxley @wtwreviews - TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
In recent years, TAG has quickly become one of my favorite brands. However, the watch community has traditionally expressed some concerns about TAG, notably regarding its past marketing strategies and a few questionable design choices. Recently, it has drawn the ire of enthusiasts with the relaunch of its Formula 1 in collaboration with a lifestyle brand that sounds like a speech impediment. Typically, I side with the philosophy of “buy what you like” and fuck what others say, but if you purchased the Kith Heuer, I’m judging you just a little bit. So, where’s that good good I’m hinting at?
For me, the interest began with the release of the Glassbox Carrera Chronographs. The original black and white dial releases were stunning, and then they outdid themselves with the Skipper, their collaboration with Hodinkee, and my favorite, the DATO. Other major brands focus heavily on creating one-for-one recreations of their legacy models, but TAG completely revitalized the Carrera, successfully preserving the essence of the Carreras we cherish from the past while bringing them into the present. I hope they aim to do the same with other models. For instance, I would love to see the Monaco updated in a similar way, or for them to reintroduce my personal favorite, the Monza, with a fresh look.
As the new year begins, TAG has already started sounding the alarm about their return as the watch sponsor of Formula 1. So, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that all the pomp will lead to something of significant consequence.
Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward has become the biggest brand that nobody knows about. This is a compliment, not a slight. Unlike TAG Heuer, Christopher Ward has only been around for 20 years. They lack the pedigree of most major watch brands that the general public is familiar with. Yet, their focus on innovation and affordability has earned them nearly universal admiration among enthusiasts. So, if there’s any brand that is poised to gradually become a household name with the general public, it’s Christopher Ward. Mark my words: one day, the Bel Canto will be regarded as an iconic watch, not just by enthusiasts.
Photo by Stephen Nichols @talkingabouttime - Christopher Ward Bel Canto
After the Bel Canto, they followed up with hits like the Twelve, the C1 Moonphase, and the Trident Lumiere. Home run, after slam dunk, after touchdown…sorry, I dunno sports…but you get the point. Almost every enthusiast I know owns a Christopher Ward or has one on their radar. I believe Christopher Ward will keep it going in 2025. 2024 seemed like a year where they were refining their major hits. 2025 may see further refinement, but something inside me suggests we are going to see something big.
Tudor
Photo by Stephen Nichols @talkingabouttime - Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT
Ughhhh…I know. I’m groaning as I type this because I feel this is a boring choice. The likes of Andrew Morgan and Adrian Barker may have drilled into our minds that Tudor is boring, in the most loving way possible, but in a sense, I think they oddly mean the opposite. Tudor excels at giving people exactly what they want — timeless modern watches. Every now and then, they surprise us, like when everyone shit themselves over pink, but they have also been taking the watches we love and making them even better.
That blend of refinement and surprise is charming in a way that I don’t experience with their big sister brand. I suppose I’m saying that in 2025, I hope to be charmed by Tudor. But here’s the kicker: I don’t want to see it in their Black Bay and Pelagos lines. I’d love to witness a total overhaul of their 1926 or the Royal, or to introduce something entirely new. In the micro-independent space, we are seeing a bit of a resurgence of love for dress watches, and I personally want to see a major brand solidify the return of the dress watch as well.
You might be thinking, “I never wear suits or get gussied up.” And if that’s the case, cool, neither do I. Fuck ties, and an even bigger fuck you to bow ties. If you’re not James Bond or under the age of 7, you have no business wearing a bow tie. What I mean is that the world has gotten casual, and it’s absolutely awesome. However, to me, nothing is cooler than someone dressed casually and rocking a dress watch. I’d love to see Tudor drive this home.
Norqain
This choice may come as a surprise, but it feels significantly less “boring” than the previous one. Norqain approaches the watch industry in a way that’s unlike any other brand. Although Norqain’s watches are stylish and sporty, their entry into the industry has been somewhat unconventional. When I see their products in person or observe their marketing on social media, I notice an emphasis on lifestyle above all. They are selling adventure. I get more of a “grip and rip it” vibe from Norqain rather than the idea of leisurely chasing after your golf ball in plaid pants. While I may not embody adventure myself, and I’ll never be jumping out of a plane, I do enjoy feeling like I can carve my own path. I feel this way whenever I try on a Norqain.
Photo by Norqain - Wild ONE Skeleton Grey
The use of unconventional materials, such as NORTEQ carbon fiber and vibrant rubber in watches like the Wild One series, makes this watch radiate energy. They come across more as high-impact luxury sports watches than anything else. Their Adventure Sport and Freedom Chrono lines are somewhat more reserved and, at least to me, feel a bit out of place compared to the showstopper that the Wild One represents.
In 2025, I hope to see Norqain embrace what makes them unique in the industry: their sense of unfiltered adventure. Even if you’re not an adrenaline junkie, we still forge moments that make us feel alive and grateful to be here. This feeling is what Norqain offers.
Photo by Stephen Nichols @talkingabouttime - Bremont Terra Nova Chronograph
Bremont
I can feel the collective air leave the mouths of all the tried-and-true enthusiasts bellowing at the mere mention of Bremont. I’ll be honest, the aesthetic of Bremont was never my jam, BUT they definitely had an aesthetic. It appealed to a specific group of hardcore fans. Yet, I never saw a Bremont on anyone's wrist who wasn’t a watch nerd. If you’re a company that’s sunk enough money as Bremont has to be in the game, you need to start considering something that will appeal to a broader audience. Enter Davide Cerrato.
Who better than the man recognized for his time at Tudor, when they relaunched in the United States and introduced the watch world to the Black Bay line of watches? Who better than Davide Cerrato to change Bremont's direction for greater mass appeal? Bremont launched their new logo and styles of watches at Watches and Wonders 2024 to almost unified disdain.
Putting my opinions aside (the logo is poor, and the watches are underwhelming, especially given the price), it may require ripping out the soul to insert Bremont with a new one. Bremont is on my list because I see significant potential here, which depends on how the company responds to consumer criticism in the coming years.
These are my picks for several brands to watch in 2025. What do you think? Share your thoughts in the comments below, and let me know which brands you believe will make an impact in 2025!
